Great Native Designs at the SWAIA Haute Couture Fashion Show
Frances Madeson
Eleven designers and 93 models walked the runway to DJ Celeste Worlās techno, rock nā roll and Indigenous soundtrack at the 2017 SWAIA Haute Couture Fashion Show.
āMusic opens up our hearts and souls,ā DJ Worl told ICMN. āI start with the beat and energy of the people.ā
Rose B. Simpson, an IAIA graduate with an MA in Ceramics from the Rhode Island School of Design, is a multi-media artist from Santa Clara Pueblo who showcased street fashions on models adorned with head wraps, leather cuffs and aviator glasses. Models strolled the runway some barefoot, with designs that included black leggings, white tops and leather vests inscribed with text messages like āAwareā and āDonāt Give A Fuck.ā
Maya Stewart, a graduate of the London College of Fashion of Chickasaw, Creek and Choctaw descent, sent her collection down the runway to the Rolling Stonesā Honky Tonk Woman, and her high-haired models wore designs with transparent materials, including a pastel striped one shoulder gown featuring side slits to the waist; a long sheer black cape over a mini-dress; and a mylar top with a floor-length tulle skirt over hot pants. There were also contemporary Native menās designs with a contemporary street edge.
Sho Sho Esquiroās designs included swirling blue pants, a sea-green sleeveless top and a sleek black cocktail dress trimmed with white repurposed fur sleeves. There was also a halter necked, form-fitting black gown with a veiled cloche and an opened ornate vest filled with silver shimmer. Esquiro is of Kaska Dene, Cree and Scottish heritages, all of which wend their way into her textile designs.
Pamela Bakerās clothes featured plunging backs and lots of shimmer, sumptuous evening gowns, two gossamer wedding dresses, a green lizard textured skirt with a high side slit paired with a gold halter top, and a maxi-skirt matched with a butterfly cape. Her show stopper was a feathered, cropped cape with a roiling, ruffled skirt, both in copper.
āA Kwakiutl copper metal shield represents wealth; the more copper shields your family owns in the Potlach system, the wealthier they are in treasures,ā Baker told ICMN. Baker, who is of Kwaguilth/Tlingit/Haida ancestry on her motherās side and Squamish on her fatherās, holds a degree in Fashion Design from Otis College of Art and Design.
The only designer in the show with a degree in mechanical engineering, Loren Aragon of Acoma Pueblo, told ICMN that he wants the women who wear his elegantly structured designs āto feel empowered, to stand out, to rise up to their occasions, and be remembered.ā
Drawing from his villageās traditional ceramics, he translates Acoma pottery designs and techniques into couture. A pinch pot for example becomes a white off-the-shoulder party dress made distinctive by its fabricās pinched texture; a parrot pot inspires tropical colored finery in the form of a dreamy silk tunic. Aragon incorporates metalwork into his fashions, too; his multi-tiered black silk skirted gown with leather corseted bodice is decorated with metallic rings of varying sizes.
Violet Dawn Ahmie of Laguna Pueblo made her SWAIA debut presenting seven party dresses that comprise what she terms āan autobiographical collectionā and āan intimate viewā of her life so far. Her work emphasizes textured layeringāover skirts, hidden pleats, ruffled necklines, sheer sleeves, dramatic cutouts, and scalloped and beaded fabrics.
Ahmie told ICMN that her canvas is primarily ālace and skinā upon which she evokes āmoods of love, edgy elegance, strength and softness.ā Ahmie draws, cuts and sews everything by hand.
Crystal Worlās urban summer clothes emphasize body and bold tattoo-like patterning. Crystal Rose Demientieff Worl is Tlingit Athabascan from Raven moiety, Sockeye Clan, from the Raven House. (See title image)
Dorothy Grant, arguably the most experienced and acclaimed designer showing this year, served up elegance with her rich and diverse collection of grownup, dress-up Native chic. Grant is Kaigani Haida of the raven clan from the Brown Bear House of Howkan.
Patricia Michaels of Taos Pueblo showed the largest number of pieces and the most varied as she prepares for her trip to āWorld Fashion Week, Paris 2017.ā Michaels is one of only ten designers to represent the US. It was a veritable parade of billowing butterflies, mylar leggings, long fringed hair pieces, decorative pom-poms and jeweled clasps, emphasizing openness and airiness and only partial closures.
Michaelsā collection was photographer Nate Lemuel of Gallup, NMās hands down favorite.āThe women were coming into the light of things,ā he told ICMN at the conclusion of the show. āThe colors became increasingly vibrant.ā
Orlando Dugi created artful dresses embellished with beadwork, gold thread embroidery, antique crystals and feathers. Dugiās work received enthusiastic applause.
Jamie Okuma is LuiseƱo and Shoshone-Bannock, and her fashions borrow from sports and military motifs, her works were also well-received.
ā